Aloha.

One day I woke up on an island in the Pacific Ocean. In a place that is known for it's rugged landscapes, for its cliffs, rippling waterfalls and over lapping tropical vegetation with beaches covered in gold and red sands. The adrenaline of excitement strikes the human soul as the waves gradually rise up above from the calm sea. I hear them come crashing down fast. The sound of kamikaze. The ocean is wild, yet, at the same time, it is peaceful under the fiery sun. A man with a surfboard under his arm sets out and walks across the hot sand, burning the soles of his feet as he makes his way towards the sea. Ready to take a leap of faith and ride the monstrous waves of the pacific waters in the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawaii.

O’ahu has Hawaii’s biggest city and capital, Honolulu. The city is known for its popular surf location, Waikiki Beach. Home to the father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku. Waikiki has a special vibrant neighbourhood with designer fashion stores, wall to wall along the Kalakaua Avenue and the area buzzes nonstop after dark with long happy hour drinks in cocktail bars, dance clubs and sports pubs. Waikiki is for everyone. No need to look for paradise because Waikiki is paradise. Even, the homeless who managed to escape from the main land of the United States are not complaining. Every now and then, the freelancers will try to bum a spare cigarette from a stranger and strike up a friendly conversation. Very interesting characters, you can randomly meet in the smoking zone(s). The Hawaiian State laws holds very strict regulations with tobacco use and liquor. By all means, it helps to maintain safty on the island and keep the gorgeous beaches fresh and clean. Humanity needs to restrain itself and look after the world we live in. Although, in the Ala Moana beach park at the end of the day with a sneaky beer in a paper bag, to sit and watch the yellow red orb of light slowly sink beneath the clear horizon can be truly satisfying.

Billybob had been living Honolulu ever since he got out of jail in California. Hawaii had transformed him into a better man and he began to live a healthier lifestyle. Surrounded by nature and good vibes. He knew all the surfing hot spots of O'ahu. The surf had washed away his miserable past and negative energy, it only seemed that the surf had baptised him. Born again as a new man. Thursdays were his days off at the shop, a break from drawing and colouring the skin of his customers. Billy had learned the art of tattooing in prison and completed his apprenticeship in San Francisco. As soon as the sun rose on Thursdays mornings, Billy was already on the road with his boards strapped to the bars on his rotten green nineties Jeep Wrangler, heading towards Ehukai Beach.

The drive towards the north of the island was a pleasant ride. Billy decided to take a different routine than his usual route because he volunteered to give me and two other friends a tour around the island. There was no traffic, no stress and no horns blaring, except for the friendly honks that say "Eh, brudah. Da light is green. Puff puff pass and Go!". We made our way to the Koʻolau Mountains to visit the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, because there is a beautiful Byodo-In Temple with a breath taking backdrop view of the mountains. It was built around the 1960s. It is a replica of a 1000 year old Byodo-In Temple located in Uji, Japan. Once we crossed the bridge, it had lead us to a five foot brass Peace Bell. The large bell can be heard throughout the valley when it is rung. It has been told that ringing the bell with the wooden log (Shu-moku) will purify the mind of evil spirits. We walked through the temple and watched the black swans wonder freely in the garden grounds while the turtles lay peacefully beside the ponds. The ponds are filled with koi, a Japanese decorative fish that is a symbol of love and friendship. This is a beautiful place to wander and reflect.

After we stretched our legs and ready to hit the road again, Billy was itching to hit some waves, "All right guys, let's hit the Pipeline" He says loudly with a joyful smile. All three of us cheered right on after he had said that. The Banzai Pipeline is a famous surfing hotspot at Ehukai Beach. Every year there an event - The Billabong Pipeline Masters. Many people have died or been seriously injured at Pipeline. The average wave is between four to seven metres tall. None of us are pro surfers. All four of us knew how to surf and enjoyed riding the curls but we were not crazy enough to face a death wish and die surfing. Sharks are enough to worry about, especially in Australia. I just wanted to see the beach for my own sake and really observe the intense scene. Eddie suggested that we surf Chun’s Reef before checking out Banzai. Chun's Reef has breaks far out into the ocean with very small waves. The waves are usually long and easy to ride. Great for beginners and long-boarders. Billy was annoyed by the idea at first because it meant that he had to drive back into the city and go the opposite direction.

Nothing better in life than to be out in the ocean. Resting on the longboard between your legs and floating patiently. Preparing myself for the perfect moment start paddling my arms at the tip of the wave and drop into the slope of the curl. Challenging oneself to ride one of mother nature's gifts. Everyone out on the water with a board is after the same thing, but only one person can own the wave at one time. The first one to drop in and on their feet, the wave is lost and taken away by a stranger. No need to get upset, there are plenty of chances to catch another wave. We had spent more than two hours surfing at Chun's Reef. I had forgotten all about my problems on land. My mind was clear and stress free. I was convinced that ringing the Shu-moku, had purify my mind of evil spirits and negative energy. Chun's a good spot to surf and I would surf there again without a question. After, we ate some food up on the grass, we stood up facing the soft sand that meets the water and had one last glance of the magical view before we travelled to our final destination of Billy's tour.

Parking was not easy to find. It had bugged me the fact that, there was only twenty car spots at the parking lot. A tourist location with very little parking space is just ridiculous. There was no choice but to park the Jeep two miles away from main area. We could hear the waves crashing from the road and feel the powerful vibration as we walked. All of us were laughing at each other with excitement and feeling scared, not knowing what to expect. This was just an ordinary day, there was no competition or event and there was already a flock of people looking at the sea aimlessly. My eyes became wide opened after I arrived, "Fuck me dead! That thing is a freaking Tsunami". My body was shaking when I said that out loud. None of my friends could not say a word. Billy was speechless as well. Everyone at the reef had their phones in their hand and filled up their photo album. A few drones were hovering around in the air and capturing the shoots from a different angle. Surfers from around the world are there to test their skills on the legendary beast. If a surfer falls of his board and survives the rumble, he has just cheated death and everyone on shore cheers for his survival. I had never witness anything so spectacular from a theatrical performance delivered by the original drama queen, mother nature herself. What a Diva.

#Hawaii #Paradise #Sport #USA